So the weekend has past and it really delivered. Mr Stylemaster, don Tomaso, Tomaten, Tom and so on finally arrived in Oxford on the Thursday evening. After a couple of beers and a nightcap we got some sleep, only to wake up feeling slightly disappointed since the swell had not picked up. But staying true to the proposition that you get more waves on the coast than in Oxford we headed to Newquay.
We arrived around 5-6 O'clock and I was skeptic but Tomas got a board and out we went. Tomas barely made it out back before catching his first and came back with smiles all over. I knew that there was no reason to beat a round the bush and got my piece of the action. As the sunset and dark arrived we were still in surfing in the floodlights of the Fistral surfclub. My last wave of the day was an ego boost since Tom was on the beach looking at me. I saw the wave jacking in front of me and pulled in just as it closed. 1 nano second in the tube before the lip fell like a guillotine on the small of my back. Heeee!
After some dinner and beers at Newquay arms and Skinner's we went to bed, begging for more the day after. Matt at Driftwood lodge woke us up around 0730 for some breakie after which we got out gear into his van and went to Watergate. It was a beautiful morning and the sun was out as we got into our wet wetsuits. The surf was clean and not crowded so it was perfect with a small 2-3 foot swell. I had a fantastic day and caught a lot of waves, including the ride of my life!! I came flygin along the face, quite low on the board and it was just so peaceful. I let my right hand drag and everything was just in harmony on this beautiful little right. The now seemed extended. Afterwards I did not know what to do with myself, I was just high I guess, apart from trying to score more. Surf dream 1 accomplished.
Back in Oxford later on the Saturday we had some food at 10pm and just continued to chat and drink until 4-5 in the morning. It was a well good night! And by the looks of things I will be bestman for the first time of my life in August next year. Tom and Mia are getting married in Fjallbacka and that is going to be sooo cool.
Things are looking up!
KvH
Subscribe to:
Post Comments (Atom)
1 comment:
I loved that story!!! That wave just sounds awesome - there are only a few moments in life that can be called an 'extended now'!! My sister and I used to create them together - every one of them I remeber distinctly, but my favourite wwas when we were driving across the open plains of South AUstralia under full moon, and it was so beautiful, we decided on the count of three we would be fully 'in the now'..1, 2, 3!! POW!!! Burned into my memory forever. Not a wave, of course, but beautiful and special!!
W xxxx
Post a Comment